7 Days On Amtrak’s California Zephyr

Day 5 – Salt Lake City

The fifth day of our cross-country Amtrak journey finds us in the capital of Utah and the heart of the Mormon faith, Salt Lake City. We’ll need a car today, so plan ahead and have a rental booked in advance.

Temple Square and the Tabernacle

Mormon pilgrims founded Salt Lake City in the 19th century after being drive further and further west by attacks on their religion. The Church of Latter-Day Saints (as it’s officially known) flourished in this vast and mostly empty land and has dominated the culture of Utah ever since. The center of the Mormon faith is located in Salt Lake’s Temple Square. The massive Temple dominates the entire area, soaring more than 200 feet into the air, topped with a statue of the angel Moroni. It took more than 40 years to build, finally opening in 1893.

Unfortunately, non-Mormons aren’t allowed inside, so you’ll have to satisfy yourself by strolling around the Square and admiring the breathtaking architecture. If you’re interested in learning more, hop on one of the free tours that regularly leave from the Square, led by church members. Lovers of music shouldn’t miss the free and absolutely stunning organ recitals conducted in the famous Tabernacle or on the gargantuan organ at the nearby Conference Center.

Antelope, Bison, and the Great Salt Lake

It wouldn’t be a real trip to Salt Lake City without seeing the lake itself, would it? For the best views of this natural wonder, we’ll hop in the car and head about 40 miles north to Antelope Island State Park. The island (or peninsula, when the lake is particularly low) is one of the best spots in the area to hike, bike, or just take in views of the lake. For a quick hike with great views, try the 1-mile Buffalo Point Trail. You can also get your feet wet and wade into the lake itself at the beach at Bridger Bay.

While you might expect antelope to be the wildlife star here, you’d be mistaken. The island was without the creatures for decades and only saw them reintroduced in 1993. The real center of attention is the island’s herd of wild bison, approximately 600 of whom roam freely through the park. Keep your eye out, as catching a glimpse of these enormous creatures is one of the highlights of the trip. For just a moment, you can forget the year and travel back in time to when the west was really, truly wild. Just make sure to keep your distance. Incidents with bison are rare, but if one stops what it’s doing and pays attention to you, you’re too close.

Back To SLC and Back On the Train

Head back to Salt Lake City and drop off your car, and get ready for your late-night boarding for your final segment on the Zephyr. But before you go, grab some delicious Mexican food at a Salt Lake City institution, Red Iguana. Try the puntas de filete a la nortena, a local favorite. These top sirloin tips are cooked with bacon, jalapenos, onions, and tomatoes, and served atop their almond mole.

By the way – as this is your final overnight on the California Zephyr, it might be a good time to spring for a roomette or bedroom if you can afford it. While traveling coach is undeniably cheaper, sleeper cars are an awesome part of the Amtrak experience that shouldn’t be missed if you can help it.

Day 6 – Salt Lake City -> Emeryville, San Francisco

Overnight, you’ll zip through northwestern Utah and northern Nevada and arrive in Reno, NV, by morning. Treat yourself to a dining car breakfast this morning. It’s your final day on the train, and you deserve it.

Beautiful Scenery, Ugly History

Our route today will take us back into the mountains once again. The Sierra Nevada run approximately 400 miles north to south in northeastern California and provide another incredible scenic journey for the California Zephyr. The train will make a stop in Truckee, a jumping-off point for visiting the majestic Lake Tahoe. The town is also home to some of the grimmest Western history. The infamous Donner Party spent the winter stranded here. After food ran out, they resorted to cannibalism and still barely survived.

The Zephyr continues to weave through the mountains, past tiny communities evoking the region’s gold rush and pioneer history – Midas, Secret Town, Gold Run. After a stop in Colfax (along a route once run by the Transcontinental Railroad), we’ll begin our long descent toward the coast. Catch a glimpse of California’s capital as we pass through Sacramento, crossing the Central Valley as we head into the Bay Area.

End of the Line

Finally, in the mid-afternoon, the California Zephyr will pull into its final stop in Emeryville, CA. This small city north of Oakland is as far as the train will take us. Wave goodbye to the train as you head out of the station. This Zephyr or one like it has been your home for the better part of the last six days! From here, we’ll need to hop on a bus connection to take us into San Francisco proper.

Depending on the day, your bus may take you to the Ferry Building Bus Stop, Financial District Bus Stop, San Francisco Shopping Center Bus Stop, or Fisherman’s Wharf/Pier 39 Bus Stop. All are fairly centrally located within San Francisco, allowing easy access to most areas of the city. Grab an Uber to your hotel and drop off your bags so we can head out unencumbered to enjoy an evening on the town.

Golden Gate Sunset

As the day draws to a close, head on over to Baker Beach, in San Francisco’s Presidio. It’s one of the best places to catch the sunset, framed against the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Highlands. Stroll the beach or just relax and soak in the scenery, knowing your journey is drawing to a close. Once the sun sets, head on over to the North Beach neighborhood and grab a table at Sotto Mare, a neighborhood institution. Try a hot, fresh bowl of Cioppino, an Italian seafood stew that’s heavy on crab here. By the time you’ve finished that and a glass of wine or two, you’ll be ready for a good night’s sleep.

Day 7 – San Francisco

The final day of the trip is upon us. What a transition it’s been from the sprawl of Chicago, through the plains, over the Rocky Mountains, and finally, to the beautiful San Francisco Bay area.

Alcatraz: Stay Awhile

Our busy day will begin with a trip to one of San Francisco’s most notorious tourist attractions – the once-fear prison known as Alcatraz. Grab tickets and hop on one of the ferries that leave every half hour from Pier 33. Alcatraz began its life as a fort before becoming a federal prison in 1934. The federal government designed the prison to house criminals deemed too dangerous or risky to keep elsewhere and show the public that the feds were getting tough on rampant crime from the 1920s and 1930s. 36 men tried to escape in the nearly three decades the prison was in operation. Of these, all but five were caught or killed before reaching land. The final five are still listed as “missing and presumed drowned,” leading to Alcatraz’s reputation as inescapable.

The tour of the island is largely self-guided, though you’ll have access to an audio tour, and National Park Service employees conduct activities and talks throughout the day. Keep an eye out in certain cell blocks – there are rumors the former inhabitants may have never left!

Gone Fishin’

Once you’ve ferried back to the city, it’s time to check out another iconic San Francisco attraction, the Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s just a short stroll along the water from the Alcatraz Ferry at Pier 33 to the Wharf. Make sure to stop at Pier 39 to meet the pier’s famous sea lions, which can be seen sunning themselves on floating platforms to the amusement of dozens of tourists. If you’ve worked up an appetite, this area also offers some of San Francisco’s best seafood. Grab something delicious from one of the dozens of small restaurants, perhaps in one of the city’s classic sourdough bread bowls!

On the way out of the area, take a quick walk over to another must-see San Francisco stop – Lombard Street. Holder of the Guinness Book of World Records record for most crooked road, the section between Hyde Street and Leavenworth Street descends at a 27% incline for a quarter-mile, zigging and zagging 9 times. Brave souls who try to navigate it in their cars must stick to a 5-mile-per-hour speed limit, although it’s hard to imagine safely going any faster!

If you can, grab a cable car while you’re in the area. This uniquely San Francisco experience allows you to navigate the city’s rolling hills in an open-air trolley-style car. On particularly crowded rides, you can even hang off the edge as your roll down San Francisco’s streets!

Forget It, It’s Chinatown

We’ll head to Chinatown in the afternoon. It’s one of the country’s most vibrant Chinese communities, the largest outside of Asia, and the oldest in North America. The neighborhood is centered around the parallel streets of Grant Avenue and Stockton Street, between Broadway and Bush Street.

Make your way to the Dragon’s Gate at Bush Street and Grant Avenue to check out the traditional southern entrance to the Chinatown neighborhood. It was donated to the area in 1970 by Taiwan and has since become one of the area’s focal points. From here, the best way to experience Chinatown is by simply exploring, popping into local shops, and trying out the food. Some places not to miss include the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, which produces 10,000 cookies per day, and the beautiful painted balconies and buildings of Waverly Place.

Leaving Your Heart In San Francisco

As our seventh day draws to a close, it’s time to pack up and head home. East-coasters can catch a red-eye flight, while west coast residents will have a shorter flight or drive home. You can even take another train! The Bay Area also falls along the Coast Starlight route, which runs from Washington State to Los Angeles.

Your seven-state, 2,400-mile journey is over. You’ve seen the Great Lakes, the Mississippi River, the Great Salt Lake, and the Pacific Ocean. You’ve crossed the vast plains of the Midwest and climbed high into the Rockies, the Wasatch, and the Sierra Nevada. You’ve seen the holiest sites in Mormonism and the insides of marijuana grow houses and breweries. You’ve eaten delicious steaks, seafood, and everything in between, and hopefully picked up some great souvenirs along the way. And while your journey may be ending for now, just know the California Zephyr will keep running, waiting for your next trip.

Is It Worth It To Take The Train Cross-Country?

If you love train travel or just want to get a look at the country like no other travel method can give you, taking the train cross-country is absolutely worth it. You’ll gain an intimate understanding of the history and geography of the places along your route and meet people of all backgrounds and lifestyles. But the California Zephyr isn’t your only option for cross-country train travel. Check out our Ultimate Guide To Amtrak Cross-Country Travel for more on your other route options!